Overseas TeamTalk Guide to Measuring

Measuring and Figuration Guide (Model not available)

All girth measurements are taken nett with one finger under the tape.

Where you see show faults click to view diagram(s) showing the faults that appear when a normal jacket is worn with the figuration in question uncorrected.

HEIGHT Measure to the nearest 1" and give measure in FEET and INCHES	NAPE TO WAIST Follow contour of body from nape to small of the back	JACKET LENGTH Measure from nape down the back to the length required. Agree length with customer	HALF BACK Slightly tension jacket back & measure from sleeve seam to sleeve seam & HALVE THE RESULT. i.e. 18" across back = 9" half back
CROWN TO CUFF From centre of sleeve cuff at the required length measure up to the sleeve crown (highest point of sleeve) Agree length with customer	JACKET/VEST CHEST Place tape level high under the arms & over the shoulder blades. Make sure the measurement is taken with the body relaxed show faults	JACKET/VEST WAIST With the tape on the natural waist position (at naval) this could be over the narrowest part of the waist or over a prominent stomach	JACKET/TROUSER SEAT Place the around the prominence of the seat. Ensure the tape is level and not covering bulky items in the pockets
INSIDE LEG (Leg seam) Measure from the physical crutch NOT THE TROUSER CRUTCH (holding the tape from behind on the inside leg) to the required length at the front of the heel. Agree length with customer.	OUTSIDE LEG (Side seam) Measure from top of waistband down side seam to required length. NOTE: Mentally check the rise (body of trouser) by subtracting inside leg from outside leg. If the answer is less than 10" CHECK MEASURES	TROUSER WAIST Place tape at the level where customer wishes to wear trouser waistband. If the figure is corpulent (below the waistband) then a further measurement is required over the most prominent part. show faults	THIGH (Net flesh) This measure is the actual body measurement of the thigh. Taken approx 4" down the leg from the crutch.
KNEE (Finished garment) Only use if customer requests Measure all round and state the finished measurement of the trouser. i.e. 19" - 20" - 21" etc	BOTTOMS (Finished garment) Measure all round and state the finished measurement of the trouser. i.e. 18" - 19" - 20" etc	VEST OPENING Place the tape around the neck to the point of chest to show the opening required. Half the result to show the actual measurement. i.e. 26" = actual opening 13"	VEST LENGTH Place the tape around the neck to measure length, minimum 4" below top of trouser waistband.
FIGURATION IN SHIRT SLEEVES (WHEN YOU CANNOT USE A JACKET)	NORMAL SHOULDER Tape to nape 1.75" to 2.75" = normal no shoulder figuration	SQUARE SHOULDERS / SHORT NECK FIGURE Z-ZZ Tape to nape Less than 1.75" = Z Less than 1" = ZZ show faults	SLOPING SHOULDERS / LONG NECK FIGURE X-XX Tape to nape More than 2.75" = X More than 3.5" = XX show faults
DROP RIGHT SHOULDER (FIGURE RS-RSS) Tape to shoulder More than 0.75" = RS More than 1.5" = RSS show faults	DROP LEFT SHOULDER (FIGURE LS-LSS) Tape to shoulder More than 0.75" = LS More than 1.5" = LSS show faults	FORWARD SHOULDERS / PROMINENT BLADES (FIGURE R) Ridging and tightness from back neck to front sleeve area. Prominent blades showing through shirt at back show faults photograph	TROUSERS PROMINENT SEAT (FIGURE J) When seat is 7" MORE than WAIST check for prominent seat show faults
ENSURE ALL MEASUREMENT BOXES HAVE BEEN COMPLETED	NORMAL BALANCE Nape to tape 2.5" to 3.5" = normal No balance figuration	HEAD FORWARD (FIGURE T-TT) Forward from chest line Tape to nape More than 3.5" = T More than 5" = TT show faults	ROUND BACK (FIGURE O-OO) Forward from chest line & curve from waist tape to nape More than 3.5" = O More than 5" = OO show faults
ERECT (Figure P-PP) Stands upright Tape to nape Less than 2.5" = P Less than 1" = PP show faults	FULL CHEST (Figure W-WW) Stands upright Tape to nape Less than 2.5" = W Less than 1" = WW Muscular or busty at front show faults	SWAY BACK (Figure G) Stands with hips and seat forward from shoulders to the waist show faults	TROUSER Low front waist corpulent (Figure L) Waistband is worn below the natural waist position. Jkt waist = natural waist Trs waist = waistband position show faults

HEIGHT

Measure to the nearest 1" and give measure in FEET and INCHES

NAPE TO WAIST

Follow contour of body from nape to small of the back

JACKET LENGTH

Measure from nape down the back to the length required.

Agree length with customer

HALF BACK

Slightly tension jacket back & measure from sleeve seam to sleeve seam & HALVE THE RESULT. i.e. 18" across back = 9" half back

CROWN TO CUFF

From centre of sleeve cuff at the required length measure up to the sleeve crown (highest point of sleeve)

Agree length with customer

JACKET/VEST CHEST

Place tape level high under the arms & over the shoulder blades. Make sure the measurement is taken with the body relaxed

show faults

JACKET/VEST WAIST

With the tape on the natural waist position (at naval) this could be over the narrowest part of the waist or over a prominent stomach

JACKET/TROUSER SEAT

Place the around the prominence of the seat. Ensure the tape is level and not covering bulky items in the pockets

INSIDE LEG
(Leg seam)

Measure from the physical crutch NOT THE TROUSER CRUTCH (holding the tape from behind on the inside leg) to the required length at the front of the heel.

Agree length with customer.

OUTSIDE LEG
(Side seam)

Measure from top of waistband down side seam to required length. NOTE: Mentally check the rise (body of trouser) by subtracting inside leg from outside leg. If the answer is less than 10" CHECK MEASURES

TROUSER WAIST

Place tape at the level where customer wishes to wear trouser waistband. If the figure is corpulent (below the waistband) then a further measurement is required over the most prominent part.

show faults

THIGH
(Net flesh)

This measure is the actual body measurement of the thigh. Taken approx 4" down the leg from the crutch.

KNEE
(Finished garment)

Only use if customer requests

Measure all round and state the finished measurement of the trouser. i.e. 19" - 20" - 21" etc

BOTTOMS (Finished garment)

Measure all round and state the finished measurement of the trouser. i.e. 18" - 19" - 20" etc

VEST OPENING

Place the tape around the neck to the point of chest to show the opening required. Half the result to show the actual measurement. i.e. 26" = actual opening 13"